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Longhorn Handling and Management

Longhorn cattle function best when they are worked calmly, without rushing them! This applies to any size or age of the Longhorn. Very intelligent creatures, they learn fast, remember well, and respond to voice and hand signals from the handler. The more often you mingle with them, talk to them using their name, the tamer they are and learn to trust you. If, however, you end up with a flighty, unmanageable Longhorn, it is probably best that that animal "grow wheels".
It goes without saying that Longhorns (and probably other breeds) that are "dumped" into a large pasture of several hundred acres without human contact, will become "wilder" and have a larger "flight zone". In these instances, you will find the Longhorns are much more difficult to work.
Some Handling Pointers
These "Pointers" especially apply to Longhorn Cattle; however, most are also appropriate for other breeds:
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When adding new Longhorns to your pasture, they will "walk the fenceline" in search of any "weak spots".
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To ease their transition into an existing herd, "quarantine" new arrivals in secure pen next to existing cattle.
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Work your cattle slowly, you save time in the long run.
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Avoid shouting, hollering, or making rapid movements when working them.
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Longhorns are intelligent and easy to train with voice and body-language instructions.
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With proper training you DON'T need dogs or a Horse to move or sort a Longhorn.
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Know the "flight zone" of your animals and use it to your advantage.
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Move cattle forward by positioning yourself at 45 degree angle to their hip at edge of their Flight Zone.
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Stop or move cattle back by positioning youself in front of them.
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Use a 5-6" fiberglas sorting stick to point with as extension of your hand & arm.
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Position your sorting stick horizontally while standing in front of them to train them to "stop".
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Communicate with them using their Name everytime you work one.
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Never use a "Hot Shock" device: you don't need it to work them.
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Work your Longhorns around their usual habits and time of day movements.
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If you "bait" them with water or "cubes", always deliver the reward without fail.
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When using a sorting stick, usually a mild "poke" or "tap" will be sufficient.
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Identify your dominant or "leader" and use her/him to your advantage.
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Longhorns (and other livestock) are social animals: Don't pen up one without a "buddy" or out-of- sight of the others.
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If you have a "wild" animal, let it "Grow Wheels"; otherwise, it will "train" the others.
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Get rid of any fence jumpers or fence crashers: they will "train" the others.
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Get the "lead" or dominant animal to go first: the rest will follow.
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Keep your own movements slow: move cattle at "their" pace...avoid wrecks.
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Periodically move your cattle from one area to another: always with a "reward" such as new hay bale.
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Periodically let your cattle into the corral or working area: WITHOUT doing anything to them.
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Frequently walk, wander amongst them: get them used to you.
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Communicate YOUR "flight zone" : don't let cattle get any closer to you than you want to risk.
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Frequently visit a cow and her new calf (across the fence) to let her know you won't hurt her calf.
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Be ALERT to the body language of the cattle: know when to back off...
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NEVER get between a Bull and a Cow or Heifer in heat.
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NEVER get between a Cow or Heifer and her calf...unless you KNOW their response.
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NEVER put two breeding age bulls in same pasture, especially with female in pasture also.
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Always have an alleyway or vacant pasture between two breeding age bulls.
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NEVER turn your back on a BULL (or) "aggressive" cow.
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Cattle can kick BACK, FORWARD, and to the SIDE: Position yourself accordingly.
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CALVES can HURT you also.
These are just a few of the tips for "safe" and "effective" handing of Longhorns (and other livestock).
Some WARNING signs a Longhorn Is Irritated, excited, or Upset
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Longhorn tosses it's head around and side-to-side or up and down
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Longhorn (or other breed) paws the ground
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Longhorn (or other breed) lowers its head and moves toward you
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